Mighty Architecture

     We slept like babies after our restless night on the bus. We woke up in Cusco to a beautiful medley of both pre-colombian and colonial architecture. In the middle of Semana Santa (Holy Week), the central plaza (which we could see out of our apartment window) was in constant motion with parades and processions. One moment we saw soldiers in their dress uniforms and at other times there were Inca women dancing in traditional garb. It will continue this way for the rest of the month.
     The first day we hit up three museums: the convent of Santa Catalina, the Dominican monastary/Qoricancha, and the museum of pre-Colombian art. Each impressed and saddened us in varying ways. As always, history both enchanted and disturbed me. We saw many paintings and read many stories of conversions, some forced and some not. We also learned that many conversions remained incomplete, producing a syncretic religious landscape that mixed Christianity and pre-Colombian beliefs.  I know too well the evil deeds done in the Americas in the name of God. I also know that the Living God has transformed his share of souls regardless of the intentions of men. He will always claim his share.
    It only took a day of museum hopping for it to grow old. So, on Monday we decided that it was time to see some ruins. We bought two comprehensive "tourist tickets" that granted access to most regional Inca sites excluding Machu Picchu. After scheduling a tour, we hopped on a bus and saw four ruin sites until dark. We learned that the Inca had designed Cusco both aesthetically and strategically. The city was planned to resemble a jaguar, with the "head" serving as the primary defense garrison. This site, Sacsayhuaman, stood out primarily because of the stone arrangements. The scale of the stone walls (without mortar) rivaled architecture in the European middle ages.
     Ruins are impressive, but living people are far more fascinating. Much of this blog will be devoted to interactions that we have. While touring the sites near the city, we met a couple from Connecticut with whom we shared some stories. We also met an Italian ski-instructor/surfer on the tour. We connected with him very easily, as well. These were the first significant interactions on the trip outside of family.
    The next day was the big one: Machu Picchu. The only way to get there is by either train or foot (via the Inca trail). We chose the train. The ride was unbelievably beautiful. It looked like the Swiss Alps, but with llamas.  We passed trout-filled rivers, steep snow-capped peaks, and green gorges. We sat at a table with a couple from Barcelona. We enjoyed the ride with them and shared very pleasant conversation.
    When the train stopped at Aguas Calientes, the town beneath Machu Picchu, we worked through the various gates and ticket booths before boarding the bus to the top. Like many, I first saw Machu Picchu in schoolbooks. The site is truly beyond description. Never discovered by the Spanish, the Inca citadel is an unspoiled masterpiece of stone architecture and stunning green terraces. We were very excited to go on our guided tour with a couple from Brazil. Communicating in bits of Spanish and Portuguese, we walked the ruins and laughed at encounters with llamas. We were very blessed by the ease of making friends up to this point, and were reminded of why we love to travel so much.  (p.s., the dog in the picture is called a Peruvian Inca Orchid, a rare breed outside of Peru and once used as a footwarmer by the Inca.)